PLANTING SEEDS
Mother Nature has her own way of germinating seed. In the field, she provides warmth from the sun, moisture from the clouds(or your garden hose), and nutrients in the soil.
Any authentic seed house can be looked upon for fine seeds; but however, there is a big risk in seeds. A seed may to all appearings be all right and yet not have within it life force enough, or ability, to produce a robust plant.
If you save seed from your own plants you are able to pick out carefully. Suppose you are preserving seed of aster plants. What blossoms shall you decide upon? Instantly it is not the bloom only which you must consider, but the entire plant. Why? Because a weak, untidy plant may produce one fine blossom. Looking at that one blossom so truly lovely you think of the countless equally lovely plants you are getting to have from the seeds. But just as probably as not the seeds will produce plants like the parent plant.
Therefore in seed selection the entire plant is to be considered. Is it tough, strong, well formed and harmonious; does it have a considerable number of fine blossoms? These are queries to ask in seed selection.
Whenever you should bechance to have the choice to visit a seedsman’s garden, you will see here and there a blossom with a string tied around it. These are blossoms chosen for seed. If you look at the whole plant with care you will be able to see the tips which the gardener held in mind when he did his job of selection.
In seed selection size is another point to put in mind. At present we acknowledge no way of saying anything about the plants from which this special collection of seeds came. Therefore we must give our whole idea to the seeds themselves. It is quite obvious that there is some alternative; some are much larger than the others; some far fatter, too. From altogether implies select the largest and fullest seed. The reason is this: When you burst out a bean and this is very observable, too, in the peanut you see what appears to be a little plant. So it is. Just under the right circumstances for growing this ‘little chap’ grows into the bean plant you know so well.
This small plant must depend for its early growth on the nourishment stored up in the two halves of the bean seed. For this use the food is stored. Beans are not full of food and goodness for you and me to eat, but for the little baby bean plant to feed upon. And so if we take a large seed, we have taken a larger amount of food for the plantlet. This little plantlet feeds upon this stored food until its roots are prepared to do their work. So if the seed is little and slim, the foremost the food supply is too little, and there is a possibility of losing the little plant.
You may care to notice the name of this buttery of food. It is called a cotyledon if there is only one portion, cotyledons if two. Thus we are aided in the categorisation of plants. A few plants that bear cones like the pines have several cotyledons. But many plants have either one or two cotyledons.
From the large seeds the strongest plantlets comes out. That is the reason why it is better and safer to prefer the large seed. It is exactly same case as that of weak children.
There is often another problem in seeds that we purchase. The problem is impureness. Sometimes seeds are mixed with other seeds which are same in appearance that it is hopeless to observe the fake. Pretty poor business, is it not? The seeds may be dirty. Bits of foreign matter in with large seed are very easy to discover. One can simply pick the seed over and make it clean. From clean is meant freedom from foreign matter. But if small seed are dirty, it is very difficult, almost impossible, to make them clean.
The third affair to look out for in seed is viability. We know from our examinations that seeds which appear to the eye to be all right may not grow at all. There are reasons. Seeds may have been picked before they were mellow or mature; they may have been frosty; and they may be too old. Seeds hold their viability or seed developing power, for a given number of years and are then useless. The viability for a seed limit in years which is differs for different seeds.
By the examine of seeds we find out the germination percentage of seeds. Now if this percentage is low, don’t waste time planting such seed unless it be small seed. Immediately you question that statement. Why does the size of the seed make a difference? This is the reason. When small seed is planted it is normally sown in drills. Many amateurs scatter the seed in very densely. So a great number of seed is planted. And enough seed germinates and arises from such close planting. So quantity comprises for quality.
Just take the case of large seed, like corn for example. Corn is planted with great care far apart and a few seeds in a place. With such a method of planting the matter of per cent, of germination is most important so.
Tiny seeds that germinate at fifty per cent. may be used but this is too low a per cent. for the large seed. Suppose we examine beans. The percentage is seventy. If low-vitality seeds were planted, we could not be perfectly sure of the seventy per cent coming up. But if the seeds are lettuce go ahead with the planting.
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September 08 2008 | Garden | No Comments »
MAKING A GARDEN
Gardening is often called the only living art form. Like any form of art, designing a garden is subjective. Although gardening successfully requires learning certain skills, in the end, a garden’s beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
The first thing in garden making is the selection of a place. Without a choice, it means just doing the best one can with terms. With small space it concludes itself into no garden, or a box garden. Sure enough a box garden is better than nothing at all.
But we will straightaway think that it is possible to actually choose just the right site for the garden. What shall be decided? The biggest determining factor is the sunlight. No one would have a northwards corner, unless it were absolutely forced upon him; as, though north corners set for ferns, certain wild flowers, and begonias, they are of little use as spots for a general garden.
If possible, select the perfect place a southern exposure. Here the sun lies warm all day long. Once the garden is thus placed the rows of vegetables and flowers should run north and south. Hence placed, the plants get the sun’s rays all the morning on the eastern side, and all the afternoon on the western side. One should not to have any awry plants with such an placement.
Suppose the garden faces southeast. In this case the western sunlight is out of the trouble. So to set out the best dispersion of sunlight, run the rows in northwest and southeast direction.
The theme is to set out the most sunlight as equally distributed as possible for the longest period of time. By the asymmetric growth of window plants it is easy enough to see the result on plants of poorly distributed light. So if you use a little plot remembering that you wish the sun to shine part of the day on one side of the plants and part on the other, you can juggle out any situation. The southern exposure makes the ideal case because the sun gives half time nearly to each side. A northern exposure may imply an almost entire cut-off from sunlight; while northeastern and southwestern places always get irregular distribution of sun’s rays, no matter how carefully this is projected.
The garden, if possible, should be plotted out theoretically. The architectural plan is a big aid when the actual planting time comes. It saves time and excess purchasing of seed.
New garden places are probably to be found in two terms: they are covered either with greensward or with trumpery. In big garden areas the ground is ploughed and the greensward turned under; but in small gardens remove the greensward. How to depart the greensward in the best manner is the next question. Stake and line off the garden place. The line gives an exact and straight row to follow. Cut the borders with the spade right along the line. If the area is a small one, say four feet by eighteen or twenty, this is an comfy thing. Such a narrow strip can marked out like a checkerboard, the greensward cut through with the spade, and easily removed. This could be done in two long strips cut longitudinal of the strip. When the greensward is cut across, roll it right up like a roll of carpet.
Just suppose the garden plot is large. Then split it up into strips a foot wide and get off the ground the greensward as earlier. What shall be done with the sward? Do not throw it away for it is full of fertility, while not rather in usable form. So pack the sward grass side down one square on another. Leave it to decompose and to endure. When decayed it makes a fine fertilizer. Such a mass of rotting vegetable matter is called a compost heap. All through the summer add any old green vegetable matter to this. In the autumn put the autumn leaves on. A fine lot of goodness is being fixed for another season.
Even when the garden is great enough to plough, I would choose the largest pieces of sward instead of have them turned under. Go across the ploughed space, pick out the pieces of sward, stir them well and pack them up in a compost pile.
Simple spading of the ground is not enough. The soil is still left in lumps. Always as one spades one should break apart the big lumps. But however the ground is in no shape for planting. Ground must be very pleasant so to plant in, because seeds can get very close indeed to fine particles of soil. But the large lumps leave behind large places which no small root hair can penetrate. A seed is left aground in a perfect waste when planted in chunks of soil. A baby surrounded with large pieces of beefsteak would lust. A seed among large lumps of soil is in a similar situation. The spade never can do this job of powderizing soil. But the rake can. That’s the value of the rake. It is a great lump breaker, but will not do for large lumps. If the soil still has large lumps in it take the hoe.
Most of the people handle the hoe awkwardly. The main work of this enforce is to rid the soil of grasses and shake up the top surface. It is used in summer to form that mulch of dust so useful in keeping moisture in the soil. I often see people as if they were attending chop into atoms everything around. Hoeing should never be such energetic exercise as that. Spading is energetic, hard work, but not hoeing and creasing.
After lumps are broken use the crease to make the bed fine and smooth. Now the great piece of work is done.
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September 05 2008 | Garden | No Comments »
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